STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK AW12
HAPPENINGText: Victor Moreno
As a matter of routine, Stockholm Fashion Week AW12 presented itself at Berns Salon and Kungstrgården, both as official headquarters. Then, a few brands selected their special venues to introduce some other shows. Frankly, Swedish fashion seems to receive more and more attention internationally. This season themes were pretty much on nature. As usual, Swedish designers focus on simplicity, sharpness, comfort and technology; including new combinations of quality materials. It is a shame that Acne decided not to participate since a couple of seasons ago – well, they do all the big fashion weeks instead. However, we had the chance to see new collections from Filippa K, Carin Wester, Cheap Monday, Whyred, J. Lindeberg, Rodebjer, Minimarket, Tiger of Sweden, 5th Avenue Shoe Repair, and The Local Firm, among others. Regarding the up-and-coming Johanna Pihl and Ubi Sunt continue steadily on the rise. Also, it is nice to see the point of view and proposals from fashion students, of which Beckmans Design School take care.
Carin Wester was inspired by Paris’ old bistros and brasseries, which builds up a silhouette “sans artifice” in order to propose a timeless chic and elegant simplicity. Her garments are always characterized by an androgynous vibe and this season she pushed it forward incrementing the ultimate uniform and masculine shapes in blazers and blouses.
Filippa K. The menswear collection was presented in a cozy happing, out of the catwalk. This is always welcoming so you have the chance to see the garments in detail. Filippa K is the ultra minimal look where functionality is generally the main distinctive element. A raw and contemporary look. She works with materials in nylon, boiled wool, sharp cotton tweed. The range of tones went through metallic variations of grey and petrols, black and off-white.
J. Lindeberg continued to focus on the core elements that have come to define the Men’s Collection; a Scandinavian heritage, functional technology and progressive tailoring – precisely defined with true craftsmanship.
The Whyred A/W-12 collection is called “Forest.” It captured a range of vivid colors through thick leather fabrics imitating bark and wooden heels in natural colors. Whyred’s overall silhouette was slim with sharp shoulders.
Cheap Monday’s new collection focused on the cycles of evolution in nature, the periodic table, DNA, and fossils. An earthy range of tones were carried on denim washes and served as inspiration for prints and colors: there were fades and shades of fog and dust and using a lot of coarse structures to give a feeling of earth or gravel. The balance of mind, spirit and body was spotted in an active wear with paperbag waists, folded layering, kimono shaped tops and wide trousers.
Mercedes Fashion Week, Stockholm AW12
Date: January 30th – February 1st 2012
Place: Berns Salonger, Kungsträdgården etc, Stockholm
Text: Victor Moreno
Photos: Victor Moreno