The creators’ week took place in Paris from 2nd to 13th October, announcing next spring-summer trends in ladies’ wear and accessories. From fashion shows to showrooms and fashion fairs, worldwide journalists and buyers melted and picked and chose the styles and colours to celebrate the traditionnal bi-annual birth of a revised idea of fashion.
Yet, the designers focused on general trends, and presented a brand new silhouette for next spring. Let’s prepare to superimpose a dancing skirt upon a pair of leggings, inspired by Vanessa Bruno (press show on 8th & 9th Oct.,), or a net top or a leather bra underneath a low neck tank top, as presented at Dirk Bikkembergs'(show on 7th Oct.), or all pieces of clothes, as you wish, like Marithe & Francois Girbaud (show on 9th Oct.), or Comme des Garcons (show on 3rd Oct.), suggested. Leggings are therefore announcing their great come back, more as an accessory to the global silhouette, than as a simple pair of pants (Vanessa Bruno, Celine (show on 4th Oct.) …).
Marithe & Francois Girbaud (show on 9th Oct.)
It’s not enough to have beautiful legs, next spring will require that we have a perfect back. Designers did not hesitate and showed naked backs, simply or richly ornamented, with strings, bra accessories, ribbons or sculptural pieces of satin.
Dirk Bikkembergs (show on 7th Oct.)
Many designers this year liked mixing fabrics and materials on one single piece of clothes : cotton satin and poplin, net, satin and serge, cotton and leather… especially on pants at Vanessa Bruno’s or Dirk Bikkembergs’ for example, where leather belt recalls the leather bra she wears underneath an open shirt.
Mixing yes, but always in-tone. And tones will be faded, next spring. Black and white will remain, as standard for a classic summer.
MArtin Margiella, Comme des Garcons (show on 9th Oct.)
Yet, all next tones range from flesh to brown, from plum to light grey, from antic pink to tobacco, with exceptional coloring shirts or knits : mint, orange, and essentially fuschia (Celine, Comme des Garcons, Vanessa Bruno, Valentino (show on 8th Oct..), Dirk Bikkembers…).
And denim remains, conducted by the emperor Earl Jean, and declined in all shapes and pieces.
Earl Jean (show on 8th Oct.)
So far for the ready-to-wear, accessories fair, Premiere Classe, opens Thursday 10th in the fabulous Jardin des Tuileries (former gardens to the Louvre Palace), gathering emerging and conventional names and designers of handbags, shoes, hats and all sorts of accessories. The trend of faded colors, as well as the net come back, split from ready-to-wear to handbags and shoes at Anteprima‘s, amongst others.
But the great surprise is certainly the decreasing number of buyers attending October in Paris, especially for ready-to-wear, while international visitors still seem to pay interest to the accessories and leathergoods.
Paris Fashion Week 2002
Date: 2nd to 13th October 2002
Address: 23 rue du Mail, 75002 Paris, France
Tel : +33 (0)1 40137470
Text: Clarisse Dusser