THINGSText: Ayumi Yakura

Sort of “Fashion Renaissance” phenomenon is happening in not only Sapeurs, but also everywhere in the world at the same time. Observing this movement promptly and catching the live street fashion of 7 countries, photographer Daniele Tamagni made stylish gentlemen in Congo “Sapeurs” famous as special presence in the world.

V.I.N.T.A.G.E CRU(South Africa)

Firstly you will be surprised after opening the photo book by style of “V.I.N.T.A.G.E CRU”, an ambitious group that expresses themselves through dance and fashion. Tamagni, who used to be a teacher of art history, spent many days with the objects, grasped the image including its background and context, and recorded them with interview.

V.I.N.T.A.G.E CRU (South Africa)

“You Can come from the dingiest place, but it’s about how you are going to see yourself, as trash or gold? Nobody knows your struggle or what you have left behind at home. It’s how you are going to present yourself to the world that matters most.” (Manthe Ribane / V.I.N.T.A.G.E CRU)

Smarties (South Africa)

A part of message includes memorial for Nelson Mandela. Who expected this phenomenon in the era of apartheid? Without despairing of being inferior, common thing between these young artists is that they enjoy free style by excluding stereotype and obtaining dignity using their own creativity.

Flying Cholitas (Bolivia)

“In choosing countries and eities far outside the usual context of fashion, I not only wanted to offer an overview of the phenomenon of globalized style, but also to record the resistance to and preservation of traditions.” Tamagni told.

Bolivian women who do wrestling wearing traditional flair skirts and Senegalese women who enjoy nightlife wearing sexy clothes, based on history of each country, both walk on their own “catwalk” where super model can’t walk.

Solange Knowles (American singer) and Sapeurs (Congo)

In the latter part, while gentlemen in Congo “Sapeurs” and Cuban youngsters show vivid dresses suitable for tropical weather, you can compare dark styles retranslated with philosophy of community: youth of Myanmar inspired by 70s U.K. punks and a couple of Botswana who wear mixture of 80s heavy metal, western cowboy and African style.

Afro Metal (Botswana)

What an epoch-making point about this photo book is not only interview with objects but also commentary and essay by fashion journalist, sociologist, and art researcher are included. This must be an essential book for many people who love fashion.

Author:Daniele Tamagni
Spec:B5 deformation・deluxe edition、292 pages
Price:3,200 yen(without tax)
Published by Seigensha Art Publishing, Inc.

Text: Ayumi Yakura
Translation: Fuyumi Saito

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