Lots of rain made a very welcome to Copenhagen Fashion Week. The different fashion organizations in town has created a new all-in-one edition. The outcome, a solid face of Scandinavian fashion industry. Scandinavian-driven designers strike with a clear figure of local talents in forefront including Peter Jensen, Wood Wood, Soulland, Stine Goya, Visbøl de Arce and Henrik Vibskov just achieved by the Swedish Minimarket and a promising up & coming Finnish R/H.
Soulland is a brand positioning themselves to take the torch as Copenhagen´s new blood leaving behind the t-shirt skateboarding legacy. The founder and head designer Silas Adler with just 25 years old now conducts a solid line with sharpe and edgy suits. In fact, his SS11 is inspired by the Leonard Cohen poem “The Suit”.
Other brands that comes from the Copenhagen underground scene and has positioned themselves worldwide in the latest years is Wood Wood. This time they did a show for bigger audience than the A-W collection. “Sunny Side Up” is the SS11 collection for boys and girls. They hosted the show at the Frie Center of Contemporary Arts.
However many Danish people think that Peter Jensen is their new worldwide ambassador. He is based in London and this time presented “Abigail” his creative color-o-rama for the SS11 collection. He have showed in Paris, London and New York.
In fact, Henrik Vibskov also showed his “The Last Pier Pandemonium” SS11 in Paris menswear show. Perhaps only he had have the guts to prepare his show in the middle of Ørestedsparken, an open air show the 3rd day of Copenhagen´s deluge and to leave victorious from such a challenge. His collection in collaboration with Maja Brix breaths different characteristic elements from Henrik and once again the set up was brilliant commanded in a wooden boat. Music was another factor to highligh in the show, a big beat meets Blade Runner meets Brian Eno with live wind section.
However, between so many Danish talent the podium in best collection S11 with Jensen and Vibskov is from Swedish designers Minimarket. They decided not to repeat in Stockholm Fashion Week, so just one show here in Copenhagen to present the SS11 collection. They show themselves more mature and a evolution to the luxury and calmness that somehow contrasts with the previous colorful collections. Well, we find color here, for sure. Voodoo and superstition are keynotes of their inspiration which carries on a connection with the previous Indian natives and tribes presented in AW10. In own words of Sofie Elvestedt, CEO /Head designer of Minimarket they have found themselves a division between the brand and underline Mini for Many where costumers appreciate this evolution of the brand and the more pop vibes goes to their diffusion line.
Copenhagen Fashion Week SS11
Date: Aug 11th - 15th, 2010
Place: Gallery + Terminal 2 + CPH Vsion + Others, Copenhagen – DK.
Text and photos: Victor Moreno