STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK SS12
HAPPENINGText: Victor Moreno
The Swedish premier fashion meeting improves by the year. Second season with a big budget sponsor, which provides with an extra bigger venue plus the opportunity to meet up more people from abroad, including many fashion bloggers with difficulties to shoot theirs G-12s or screen-broken iPhones, but also a nice opportunity to catch up with a few talented independent writers, characters, photographers and journalists from media outside Sweden. Mercedes Fashion Week Stockholm SS12, presented this time twenty-eight Swedish designers, including the participation of Minimarket (until now they only showed in Copenhagen), the return to the catwalk of Filippa K in womenswear, the unanimous recognition and establishment of Hope and Carin Wester, the evolution of local pride Cheap Monday and the Swedish fashion heavyweight Tiger of Sweden, scheduled at the close of the week, which has became a classic for the week. But also it is an opportunity for the up-and-coming designers: new collections from Ubi Sunt and Johanna Pihl, graduated at the London College of Fashion and winner 2011 of the YFI – for emerging fashion designers award in Sweden. All in all, the week left in forefront bohemian and sharp looks, freedom, mysticism and simplicity.
Since they started in 2006, this is the first time that the Swedish womenswear label present their collection in the Swedish arena –sometimes Fashion Week in Copenhagen is seen as enough inversion to achieve the same media, but this year sisters Sofie, Jennifer and Pernilla decided to do both. Their SS12 collection looks towards Iris. Inspired in “One Thousand and One Nights”, the mysticism of Cleopatra and the magic of Aladdin. Well, you see this in patters inspired by Egypt flora and graphic elements worn by Egyptian kings; with a color scale of several dusty and faded colors. The use of thin materials, airy and see-through – designed for wearing layers.
Her show was scheduled at the fashion pavilion. She carries on with her vision of androgynous shapes, urban and playful expressions. Carin likes to combine elements typically for male or female in both men and womenswear. She founded inspiration in the eternal traveler, a tribute to the writers and poets of the Beat Generation – freedom and life on the road without a particular destination. Inspired by the faded colors of places in Morocco or China, the Mediterranean vibe with the use of comfortable lines and soft materials. Earthy colors, floral prints. In the mood for exploring the world, the unexpected.
They always like to find an alternative location to present each collection, where media and fans are invited. This time, the shuttle took us to a shinning silver catwalk under a transparent tent to protect the show from the rain, which it turned out with the sun shinning right – enhancing the enchantments of such a catwalk. Ann-Sofie Back and Örjan Andersson decided to bring blue, orange and yellow to the forefront, based on a palette of Polaroid. A combination of these colors in stripes will be probably their best seller, with permission of bright mesh girl shoes and blue soles on leather shoes. A-line shaped pieces, long dresses and jackets and comfortable silhouettes brought a cheerful vibe overall.
They are in a magnificent moment. Ann Ringstrand and Stefan Söderberg, together is a very talented symbiosis with a wealthy experience in fashion industry. They decided to invite all the press for a breakfast meeting at Henrik Norström´s B.A.R, whilst introducing the collection themselves. They care about the details. Qualities in their garments is keynote of each collection. For the SS12 blue color takes over. For them, it symbolizes freedom, serenity and it is associated to the Nordic light. As a result, beautiful sporty suits and lumber jackets with 90s vibe for the men´s line. In the other hand, a traditional folklore with a bohemian 70´s state of mind expressed in womenswear throughout dressed suits, waxed line coats, ethnic prints on blouses and long dresses. Both men and womenswear introduced Mexican Bajaa Hood sweaters.
For a decade, the brand has established a profile of cleanliness, sophistication and simplicity, as a reference of the Nordic style. For the SS12, Filippa wanted to fuse her crisp minimal look with modern bohemianism – drawing a profile of active individuals in the need of comfortable cuts. Thereby, sporty lines and technical qualities resume both men and women´s collection. After a few seasons out of the catwalk, Filippa K decided to do two separate events: the men collection in a very intimate meeting, then she reserved the women collection for a catwalk show in the Contemporary Art Museum Moderna Museet. For man: a world traveler who mixes minimalism with a modern nomadic feel. For women: a chic urban look with athletic influences. Glamorous 70´s together with North African influences to express the free spirit with the use of tactile linens and silks and structured knits. Chunky metal jewelry is mixed with the ever so important braided leather accessories.
Frenchified Swedish womenswear brand showed-off at Berns Salonger . The brand emerged in France in 1920 and became Swedish acquisition in late 60´s. Although the brand is very classic, with a recognizable navy stripe style, reckons up quality garments with particular remarkable pieces. Slim-fit styles, shorts and skirts, officer´s jackets, trench coats, satin silk and kashmir. Since 2010, Marina Kereklidou is head designer for the brand.
Tiger of Sweden
”Geometric minimalism”, that is how TOS introduces their SS12 collection.
Being favorite Swedish brand for many, with sober style, we find an exciting collection inspired in Frank Stella’s early works. A figure in minimalism and influenced by abstract expressionism. Geometric shapes, graphic angels and innovative proportions. The womenswear also introduces patterns in pink and purple. Wearable garments with a few pearls that many wouldn´t mind to collect in their next summer wardrobe.
In addition, the last night it was organized “the fashion night” with a selection of different stores in the shopping district of central Stockholm with free drinks and open until 23.00.
Mercedes Stockholm Fashion Week SS12
Date: 9th – 11th August 2011
Place: Berns Salonger, Kungsträdgården etc, Stockholm
Text: Victor Moreno
Photos: Victor Moreno