
"We let the nature create".
In barely 2 years, Björn Frantzén has established himself as a worldwide referent in Scandinavian cuisine. Winner of Michelin star among other important awards during 2009, generates hi-standard expectations about his restaurant but also Frantzén/Lindeberg is one of the most special spots in Stockholm.
The place is located in the mystic and cozy Old Town, Gamla Stan. Here Björn offers a unique experience. There are just 6 tables, almost as many of the staff as a guests, the kitchen is open to the public, so you can see Björn and his team working in front of you, however still with a homely feeling. In addition, it´s a perfect combination to get the charismatic and literary place of Gamla Stan to the other side of the big windows. It creates a cool mix with a foggy Stockholm night outside.
The restaurant has its own bakery across the street, it´s called Lindeberg, which is also a cocktail bar by night. Sourbread “surdegsbröd”, “knäckebröd” with anis, and smoked butter are just a few examples and they are hardly comparable to anything else you could imagine.
Drinks follows the tastes of the food, it is as important as the food indeed. An unusual selection of wines, exciting moments and also cider is served to the cheese.
At Frantzén/Lindeberg there is no menu, here you find what is called “Carte blanche”, you can select between 6 or 8 different dishes that changes regarding the raw materials selected every week.
When I met Björn Frantzén at the very first instance I have to admit I was a bit surprised to see a person from my generation. We cordially talked about his cuisine, his persona and some secrets of this roller-coaster experience called Frantzén/Lindeberg.
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How is the Culinary School sector in Scandinavia?
In Sweden, all the people that goes to the culinary school needs to learn different subjects. It´s not too much practice. Normally you go to the Culinary School for 3 years and then you have the idea to work in a restaurant. If you don´t know what to do in life, you should be focused on that. About 75% is that you have to study.
Have you got any extra education/experience abroad?
Yes, I got 5 years in London and one year in Paris.
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How is been these last 2 years?
We started the restaurant in February 2008. Our ambition then was to get a Michelin star and we achieved it in 2009. For the first year we also got presence at , as best food in Sweden. We received some other important reviews and the fire was on! American Wine and Food selected most interesting restaurant 2009. We did Conde Nast hot list in May this year.
We have a certain presence of people from abroad.
Tell me about those early days.
We were into creative things, and we started a food blog. We were talking about things such molecular gastronomy (for instance I was at El Bulli in Spain too). Still you have time to play around you create something not different but better.
Since we started to run the restaurant we got a period of 6 months until the word spread away.
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Is Frantzén and Lindeberg in charge of the creative direction?
Daniel Lindeberg is in charge of the bakery of the other side of the street.
Your cuisine is yet Scandinavian but still influenced from abroad, right?
We don´t have a menu. This is what is called white menus or “Carte blanche”. We got a list of ingredients regarding the season and from that list the kitchen feels is the best of the day. You decide if is anything from there that you will not use. You can select 6 or 8 courses.
We have an ecological garden. It´s in Katrineholm (1 hour from Sthlm) producing vegetable for us. Depending what we get from him we work in that. No red meat but lots of vegetables. So we let the nature create.
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Which elements of you everyday labour you could point as most significant?
This is very important, to get the finest ingredients. For instance langostines here usually are provided from Gothemnburg , so it takes one day and on Tuesdays you never can get them, so if a client comes on Tuesday with the mood of langostines you can not offer it unless com from the fridge.
When is not menus you don´t have this issues so you really can work with the best ingredients of the day.
How is the atmosphere that you want to dress up your cuisine?
Relax, and elegant rustic. We like to work with wood and stone in a elegant way.
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Which are the classics from the restaurant?
Cheeseburger*, Tour de France*, French toast*, Escalops with bread pudding and Eau de Truffe*.
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*Tour de France: a plate in shape of France, six stops according to the race with a speciality of cheese from that region and an iPod with famous Swedish actor Stellan Skarsgård (English or Swedish version) talking about the cheeses, CRAZY!
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*Cheeseburger: It is a dessert. Inspired by the french macaroon. A tiny-cute piece of sweetness.
* Eau de Truffle: Essence of truffle serve in a mini spray-can. Even better than Chanel !
Do you like to be open-minded to new wine producers?
We are very French-based. You always can find other options, most value for money. Best wines are founded in France.
Do you enjoy most cooking for people close to you or is the other way around?
I think is the other way around. When you are off here you normally want to cook not so much. By afternoon I got to pick up kids, prepare them lunch so I have to do it in both places or pick something from the staff we have done that day to bring home when you feel more lazy.
The experience at Frantzén/Lindeberg is a space ship- once you stepped on its no turning back. A six home made bon-bons and the eucalyptus carbonic acid on apple in the end it is very memorable.
Restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg
Address: Lilla Nygatan 21, 111 28 Stockholm
Opening Hours: 18:00 – 01:00
Closed on Sunday and Monday
Tel: +46 (0)8 20 85 80 (12:00 –18:00)
info@frantzen-lindeberg.com
http://www.frantzen-lindeberg.com
Text: Victor Moreno
Photos: © Stefan van der Kwast Gissberg