The next hall shows his early creations in the 1970s. Mannequins reveal combinations of Japanese fabrics, such as shibori (dyed textile), chijimi (lightweight crepe), tsumugi (Japanese slub-woven silk fabric) and yukata (summer kimono). Included are dresses in hemp leaf patterns, knit, tweed, and cotton for stylized kimonos, pleated trousers, as well as winter wear. His unusual application of cotton for the cold season caught widespread attention, that he was labeled the “poet of cotton.”

Installation view, Takada Kenzo: Chasing Dreams, Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. Photo: Kenji Takahashi

Takada developed a reputation for bold and unconventional colors and patterns, and innovative modes, such as the balloon, peasant, military, and monk looks. The balloon look is made from knit, thick cotton or corduroy, and wraps the body like fluffy wind. The peasant look reminisces rural farmers in Japan who wear loose and puffy cotton fabric with distinct vertical stripes and checks. He expressed the military look based on decorative military uniforms worn in ceremonies, with stand-up collars and gold buttons. He adopted European priest robes for the monk look, featuring cotton lace and cotton velvet. Similar to it is the court look, with glamorous embroidery, modeled after royal figures. The 1970s also witnessed his B.D. (Bandes Dessinées) look that imitated comic book characters in pop and colorful schemes. He explained, “… I thought that there was no point in me doing what French designers were doing, because I couldn’t do that. So, I did things my own way in order to be different, and I used kimono fabrics and other influences.”

Installation view, Takada Kenzo: Chasing Dreams, Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. Photo: Kenji Takahashi

Overall, Takada’s personal touch on joyful, sometimes chaotic and oversized appearances liberated the human form void of restrictions. Often, he avoided zippers and other fasteners. Only less than five years in the limelight, he revolutionized fashion with wide-leg pants, cap-sleeved apron garments, armhole battle jackets, elasticized waistlines, patchwork, and the sailor look. His works transcended national boundaries, cultures and genders, often described as “anti-couture.” He was admired for his impeccable sense of fun that he once staged a show in a circus tent in Zurich, with himself riding an elephant. He stated, “For me, to create is to give pleasure and happiness to others, and the freedom to be myself.”