ディオール・ショップ・ミラノDior Homme Milan

In the centre stands Pierre Charpin's platform with black leather backrests, hovering above a circle of red light, above.

In the centre stands Pierre Charpin's platform with black leather backrests, hovering above a circle of red light, above.

ファッションと建築の狭間にある共通のアトラクションは何かと言うと、 実際には1970年代から始まったのに、かなり最近の開発としてそれが紹介されている事ではないだろうか。 The mutual attraction between fashion and architecture that is being presented as a very recent development really began in the 1970s, when fashion designers started to look beyond the conventional restrictions of marketing and to hire architects to work on the image of their stores.70年代というのは、 市場の因習的な規制を遥かに越えた先をファッションデザイナー達が注目し始め、彼らのショップのイメージを制作してくれる建築家と仕事を始めた頃である。倉俣史朗と三宅一生のコラボレーションがそれの良い例である。市場の他の部分では、「ESPRIT」が「SOTTSASS」、「CITTERIO」、「FOSTER」等と活動を展開していた。そして今日、「プラダ」は建築の指導者としてレム・クールハースを迎え、三宅一生はフランク・ゲーリーを含む建築家達との仕事を遂行している。


ショップにとっては、アトリエがモデルになり、「ディオール・オム」というブランドを世界中に広める事を意味する。最小限だが完璧なディテールによって、ある種の未来派的なオーラが静かなライトから伝わって来、その照明によって空間には非物質的な印象がもたらされる。スリマネがこだわった空気的な現代性があるにもかかわらず、「THE RUE FRANCOIS 1ER」にあるショップの雰囲気は、アトリエの古風な伝統にルーツがあるように思われるのだ。ディオール自身はこれを、彼の現代的な上品さの最上級バージョンへの出発点として捉えたようだ。そしてパールグレー色のモケット(いす張りなどに用いる添毛織物)とディオールの円形浮き彫りが背中の部分になされているルイ14世の椅子は、ディオールが最もクラシックな表現とするオートクチュール会社だということを彷佛とさせるのである。


Dior Homme Milan
住所:Via Montenapoleone 14, Milan
TEL:+39 02 76398530

Text: Francesca Picchi from Domusweb
Photos: Andrea Martiradonna
Translation: Sachiko Kurashina
The collaboration between Shiro Kuramata and Issey Miyake is a good example. At the other end of the market, Esprit worked with Sottsass, Citterio, Foster and others. Today Prada has Rem Koolhaas as its architectural guru, and Miyake continues to work with architects, including Frank Gehry.

But the balance between the two sides is unstable. While the world of architecture is only just beginning to react to Koolhaas’s shopping theories, the fast-moving fashion system already seems to have shot past and taken over, to judge by the new Dior store in Milan. It’s not an architect trying to make a fashion store, but rather a fashion designer moving into architecture and bringing art with him. The star system has the fashion designer at its centre. And it depends on no dilution of the designer’s – or rather the brand’s – aesthetic vision.

The atelier would become the model for the stores that would diffuse the Dior Homme brand throughout the world. With a minimum of immaculately crafted details, a certain futuristic Aura is suggested by the slices of light that give the space an immaterial impression. Despite the air of modernity that Slimane is striving for, the mood in the rue Francois 1er salon is rooted in the atelier’s classical tradition. Dior himself had seen it as the point of departure for his distinctive version of contemporary elegance. And the pearl-grey moquette and Louis XIV chairs with the Dior medallion on the back are reminders of the kind of couture house of which Dior is the most classic expression.

The Dior Homme boutique in Milan, while maintaining this spirit and repeating the allusions, goes farther in its blending of culture and commerce. Each new ‘space of diffusion’ for the Dior Homme collections – as the fashion house prefers to call its boutiques – is associated with the work of an artist. Pierre Huyghe, who represented France at the last Venice Biennale and is currently exhibiting at Documenta11 in Kassel, has designed, within a defined architectural volume in the Milan store, a space intended to serve as a changing room on the sales floor. The booth is a secluded, intimate space. On entering, the customer is naturally encouraged to walk straight to the end wall, almost hitting his own image reflected in a mirror. It is as if he had suddenly bumped into a twin he hadn’t seen since birth. Running the length of the booth is a luminous shadow that moves along the wall with the customer. The narrow and elongated space suggests walking right to the other end: movement causes the wall of LEDs to react, and its surface duplicates in light the visitor’s gestures. In fact, the body unconsciously intersects various beams of light as it moves along the booth.

Dior Homme Milan
Address: Via Montenapoleone 14, Milan
Tel: +39 02 76398530

Text: Francesca Picchi from Domusweb
Photos: Andrea Martiradonna
Dior Homme Milan
地址:Via Montenapoleone 14, Milan
电话:+39 02 76398530

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